“Updated in May 2026 with new information about the trip preparation.”
USA 2023 – Day 1, June 29
We were off!
On June 29 we left JP’s house. His family made us a farewell video. JP was carrying his 50-liter BMW bag. I had the red 40-liter Ortlieb bag, and the side cases packed with tools and everything we’d need for the trip, including horns and bear spray.
Yes, bear spray.
Mt. Rainier and White Pass
JP knows the Seattle area well and chose a route that matched the scenery: Highway 410 toward Mt. Rainier, at 4,392 meters, then on to Route 123. A snow-capped volcano in the middle of Mt. Rainier National Park, in Pierce County. Truly beautiful.
After that we crossed White Pass, at 1,370 meters, where there was still snow around at the end of June. It’s a ski resort that climbs up to 2,000 meters, and in June winter hasn’t quite let go yet.
The funny thing was, we’d just been cold up at Mt. Rainier, and at the top of the pass it was fairly warm. This would be a constant throughout the trip: the weather changing with astonishing ease. Showers here and there, whole days of nonstop rain, days at 37 degrees. You had to be ready for anything, and we were.




Mailboxes and the mail carrier who never left her car
We’d usually stop every hour, quick stops for an espresso or to stretch our legs and check the map. At one of the first ones, we noticed the mailboxes at the local ranches. Huge, painted, each one with its own style.
And while we were stopped, the mail carrier came by. Without getting out of the car, moving from mailbox to mailbox, reaching out her arm to drop in the letters.
So different from Spain.
Route 12: one of the favorites of the trip

From Mt. Rainier we rode a few kilometers of highway to connect with Route 12, which would become one of our favorite roads of the whole trip. That day we already started seeing the enormous American RVs that would become part of the scenery every day. In total, 525 kilometers and about eight hours of riding. The second-longest day of the route. We reached Walla Walla around 5pm, as planned.

Walla Walla: the empty table and the Uber driver from Iran
We arrived at the La Quinta Inn & Suites in Walla Walla, a well-located hotel, though on the outskirts of town. Walla Walla is famous for its wines and wineries, though that day we showed up hungrier than thirsty.
At the restaurant the hotel had recommended, we were told they were full. It was six in the evening. There was an empty table right in front of us.
JP asked if we could sit there. They said yes, but that we’d have to clear it by 7:30pm because it was reserved. We agreed without hesitation.
It’s amazing how people miss business opportunities without even realizing it. An empty table for an hour and a half, two hungry customers standing right there, and it doesn’t occur to them to offer it. A sign business was going well for them.
The mussels were excellent.
On the way back to the hotel we took an Uber. The driver told us, completely casually, that he’d been to Iran three times and Afghanistan twice.
JP and I looked at each other in silence for the rest of the ride.
Back at the hotel, we locked the front brake discs on the bikes and secured the cable to the brake lever. We’d make this a rule every night of the trip. A good call.
📍 Resources and recommendations
🏔️ Mt. Rainier National Park — The perfect route out of Seattle. Snow-capped summit visible from the road. Spectacular.
🛣️ Route 12, Washington — One of the best roads in the state. Light traffic, varied and ever-changing scenery.
🏨 La Quinta Inn & Suites, Walla Walla — Comfortable and well equipped. On the outskirts, but works well as a base.
🍷 Walla Walla — Famous for its wines. If you have time, the wineries are worth a visit.
Route from Seattle to Yellowstone and Glacier Park
- 2022 USA, a dream trip … failed!
- USA, a dream trip 2, we did it!
- Seattle (WA) to Walla Walla (WA)
- Walla Walla (WA) to Lochsa Lodge (ID)
- Lochsa Lodge (ID) to Gardiner (MT)
- Yellowstone & Bear Tooth Pass (WY)
- Yellowstone (WY) to Idaho – Irwin (ID)
- Idaho via Salmon on the way to Missoula – Stevensville (ID)
- Idaho to Montana, to Glacier Park – Kalispell (MT)
- Going to the Sun – Glacier National Park (MT)
- Glacier Park (MT) to Colville (MT), riding along the Canadian border
- Highway 20 Along the Canadian Border, heading to Concrete (WA)
